Buscalan Part 2: Getting Dangerously Inked

Just the village of Buscalan alone is worth the lung searing trek, but the reason people flock here is Whang Od. If you want to be tattooed by her it’s absolutely possible if you’re happy to wait, and many people are. These days it’s common to have someone else do your main tattoo then go…

Buscalan Part 1: Hills, Corned Beef & Pigs

That thing when you’re idly Googling for information on a region with little to no tourist infrastructure and all your research keeps coming back to one particular village which just happens to be home to a legendary traditional tattoo artist so you take it as a sign and start planning your trip there because basically,…

Sunsets & Waterfalls & Shiny Little Plankton

Lovina Beach is more of a backpacker haunt than Pemuteran and the former can be reached from the latter by bemo, local mini van plying a set route, which you flag down on the side of the road. We were told at our guest house that we were looking at Rp50,000 each to get there…

Blue Flames And Sulphur Lakes

We ended up catching an oven on wheels from Probolinggo to Banyuwangi, the latter of which is an absolute delight to say. “Y” over here is pronounced as a sort of “dj” so it’s Ban-dju-wangi. Love it. Love it less when you’re trying to catch a bus there from Probolinggo when you’ve read that they’ll…

The Roar Of Gunung Bromo

If you want to wrap your eyeballs around Gunung Bromo you’ll need to get to Cemoro Lawang which is easy as far as Probolinggo. Getting there is a piece of piss. It’s once you’re there when things start going tits up on account of the fact everyone is there to rip you off, I’d read…

Bit Of Time In Jogjia

There are two main tourist areas in Yogyakarta; Sosorowijayan in the north and Prawirotaman in the south, possibly because it’s amusing to watch foreigners try and pronounce unfamiliar words of more than three syllables. The latter is the kind of place you’d want to stay if you’d been on the road for a while and…

The Biggest Buddhist Monument, Like, Ever

You’re meant to get up for sunrise at Borobudur. You can either pay someone to scoot you up the sunrise hill, or you can cycle there and walk up it, or you can fuck it off all together in favour of a bit longer in bed. Option three please, Borobudur. The sunrise point isn’t far…