Buscalan Part 2: Getting Dangerously Inked

Just the village of Buscalan alone is worth the lung searing trek, but the reason people flock here is Whang Od. If you want to be tattooed by her it’s absolutely possible if you’re happy to wait, and many people are. These days it’s common to have someone else do your main tattoo then go…

Buscalan Part 1: Hills, Corned Beef & Pigs

That thing when you’re idly Googling for information on a region with little to no tourist infrastructure and all your research keeps coming back to one particular village which just happens to be home to a legendary traditional tattoo artist so you take it as a sign and start planning your trip there because basically,…

Back To Bali

Turns out that spending the night on a boat docked at a port isn’t conducive to a good night’s sleep. Fuck me, ports are noisy places. Add to that I’d developed a mean cough over the previous couple of days, I think my hacking would have kept half of Labuan Bajo awake. We’d had a…

Lombok To Komodo: Day 4

So it turns out that travel sickness tablets block up both ends. Who knew? I kind of just figured my colon had gone on strike in protest at the whole being on a boat thing which not many of my organs were particularly chuffed about but nope, I woke up at some god awful hour…

Lombok To Komodo: Day 3

I wouldn’t have rated my sleep as quality last night but the back and forth rocking of the boat was much less traumatic than the side to side of the other night. I opened my eyes and peered outside. The sky was on fire! What a stunning sunrise. My basic motor functions grudgingly agreed to…

Lombok To Komodo: Day 2

It was bang on 2am when the engines, as promised the previous night, fired up. I can sleep through noise as long as it’s constant. Even constant-ish, like traffic or music or radio chatter. The engines weren’t an issue, but fuck my life the sea was rough. Thanks to the tablets I was chucking into…

Lombok To Komodo: Day 1

So we bought our boat trip from a bloke called Ludi who had a stall outside of the $5 shop on Gili T which kind of serves us right really. We paid Rp2,000,000 each for all-inclusive deck class and it turns out we got a little bit ripped off but hey, that’s on us and…