Getting Leh’d

So here’s the thing about Leh; it’s remote as fuck. Seriously. There was no Internet for three days when we rocked up and the town often loses connectivity. Apparently they have one line that comes in from Srinagar and if the weather is bad and the line goes down, boom, no Internet, and the only…

Kee, Key, Ki or Kye?

One last thing you absolutely have to do whilst you’re in Spiti Valley is check out Kee, or Ki, or Key, or Kye, take your pick and delete as appropriate, Gompa which has got to be the single most photogenic gompa I have ever put in my eyeholes. There are buses from Kaza but then…

Tabo Gompa

Unless you have a penchant for towns that begin with T, you visit Tabo for the gompa, established in 996AD. It’s the oldest continuously functioning Buddhist monument in India and it also happens to run the Millennium Monastery Guesthouse where you can stay in a dorm room for pretty bloody cheap, so that’s where we…

Boom Shankar

We’d been assured that the path down to Kasol was easy, “You just go down down,” and it was more used than the Malana to Rashol pass and a guide most definitely wouldn’t be needed. We set off in the morning and it was indeed down down. It’s slightly less simple than anticipated on account…

On Being Perceived As Scum

Malana is a fucking weird little place! We’d read about it and kinda knew what to expect when we rocked up, we knew we weren’t allowed to touch anything, but no amount of reading about it will prepare you for it. It’s certainly an experience. Women will jump away from you, screaming, and children will…

The Tibetan Government In Exile

It’s well known that McLeodGanj is the home of the Tibetan government in exile. His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama himself, the Buddhist spiritual leader of Tibet, made the journey from Lhasa to India over the Himalayas back in 1959 when they began to fear for his safety after the Chinese invasion, and India have…

City Of The Golden Temple – Part 2

As I said in the last post, if you loiter long enough someone will approach you and bundle you into a tuk tuk to head to the Wagah border closing ceremony. If you’re foreign, take your passport. You’ll be dropped about a kilometre from where it takes place and you’ll need to clear three security…